Sewing Table Makeover

I looked for a long time for a sewing table to fit my needs. The one I had was not very sturdy and cheaply made. They just don't make 'em like they used to.

I love to yard sale (duh) and ran across this sewing table on a day I wasn't even yard saling (winning!). The gentleman selling the table had it for so long, he practically gave it away! He just wanted it to go bye-bye! $20! Can you believe it?! And with the original stool too! (I have yet to redo that)

Unfortunately, as pretty as the vintage 1952 sewing machine was, it was completely inoperable. Not quite sure what I want to do with that yet.

I wanted my table to have a bolder color. I usually don't paint my furniture bold colors, I stay in the safe zone lol. I see so many beautiful, bold teals and reds on Pinterest, but honestly where would I ever put those colors in my house? But, after making a completely unanticipated boo boo with my living room faux glaze color (oh, it's orange, that's interesting) I was more open to choosing a color I normally would not.

ITEMS NEEDED:

KILZ primer spray paint 

Lowe's Valspar sample paint is only $2.99 and it was enough to complete my project. I used La Fonda Ortiz Gold.

I preferred to stain the table top so it would have a nice contrasting color. I used Minwax Polyshades in Honey Satin.

Grade #0000 Steel Wool.










Plus painters tape, newspaper and an electric sander with 120 grit sandpaper.

Note: (This is my work area, so it isn't pretty. And excuse some of the lighting on my photos, as some were taken at night. Like a lot of moms, I work full time too)

Since I was staining the top surface, I had to sand away the original finish. Using a 120 grit sandpaper I was able to easily remove the old finish.

Once I sanded the entire top surface I removed the hardware and saved it in a ziploc. Sand remaining surfaces either with sander or by hand. This is to remove any varnish or top coat your table has so your paint will apply well. You don't have to worry about removing all the original color/finish since the bottom part will be painted.

Use the newspaper and painters tape to carefully cover and tape off the entire top surface of your table and both extended side pieces. I also covered the hinges on my front drawer with painters tape.

 In a well ventilated area, spray the table with KILZ primer spray paint. Depending on how dark your piece is, a second coat may be required.








Apply the first coat of the paint you chose to the table and the undersides of your extended side pieces. I used a 1 1/2 inch trim bristle brush. Trim brushes are my fav. So easy for tiny corners on furniture.

After the first coast has dried completely (I waited 24 hours), apply your second coat of paint. Be sure to watch for any run off from your paint. You definitely do not want run marks dried into your paint.

















Once your paint has dried completely again remove the painters tape and newspaper. Now its time for staining! I followed the directions provided by Minwax. Make sure your top surface is wiped with a clean cloth and any particles removed. I used a foam brush to apply my stain. I find it much easier. Using a clean lint free rag, gently wipe away excess stain in the direction of the wood grain.

(If you look closely you can tell I was waaay too excited to see how my stain would turn out on my side tables and applied the stain first and my paint to the underside second lol)





After the first coat of staining as dried, take your super fine steel wool and lightly sand each surface. Sand in the same direction as the wood grain. Wipe down again with a clean rag to remove debris and particles. This gives you a nice smooth surface so you do not feel any particles that may have settled in your stain while wet. Apply your second coat of staining following the same directions given above. Lightly sand with the steel wool once second coat is completely dry. (Tip: more coats will make your stain come out darker.)

This step is probably not necessary as a top coat for your stained surfaces, if you use the same stain I did, which includes the polyurethane. I applied a coat to mine anyway just to be sure my surface held up to all the activity.

Apply 1-2 coats of polyacrylic top coat to your painted surfaces. This application will protect your latex paint. I used foam brushes again for this step. Read the instructions for dry time, but I believe it is 24 hours before you could handle the furniture and 48 hours for normal use.



Attach your extended side pieces once again with the hardware and you have just made something old into something new and beautiful :)